YOGYAKARTA, Indonesia (AP) 鈥 On the outskirts of Yogyakarta, an Indonesian city that鈥檚 home to many universities, is a small boarding school with a mission that seems out of place in a nation with more Muslim citizens than any other. Its students are transgender women.
It is a rare oasis of LGBTQ acceptance 鈥 not only in Indonesia, but across the far-flung Muslim world. Many Muslim nations criminalize gay sex 鈥 including . LGBTQ people routinely are rejected by their families, denounced by Islamic authorities, hounded by security forces, and limited to clandestine social lives. Appeals for change from LGBTQ-friendly nations are routinely dismissed as unwarranted outside interference.
Yogyakarta's Al-Fatah Islamic school was founded 14 years ago by Shinta Ratri, a trans woman who struggled with self-doubts in her youth, wondering if her gender transition was sinful.
She went on to earn a bachelor鈥檚 degree in biology, then devoted herself to enabling other trans women to study Islam. Initially, there were 20 students at the school, and now about 60 鈥 many of them middle-aged.
Among them is Y.S. Al Buchory, 55, who struggled for years to cope with lack of acceptance by people around her, but now feels at home at the school and hopes tolerance spreads through her country.
鈥淟ike a rainbow, if there are red, yellow, green colors combined, it becomes more beautiful, rather than only black and white,鈥 she said. 鈥淲e must be able to respect each other, tolerate, not interfere with each other.鈥
Compared to many Muslim nations, Indonesia is relatively tolerant. Scores of LGBTQ organizations operate openly, advocating for equal rights, offering counseling, liaising with religious leaders. Only one conservative province, Aceh 鈥 which practices Sharia law 鈥 explicitly criminalizes same-sex relations.
In Aceh, 鈥 77 strokes each -- after neighbors reported them to religious police for having sex. Earlier this year, Indonesian Vice President Ma鈥檙uf Amin, in a speech to Muslim teachers, said LGBTQ people were engaged in 鈥渄eviant behavior鈥 that should be outlawed.
鈥淧arliament must be demanded to make this law," said Ma'ruf Amin, a Muslim cleric. 鈥淎sk them to ban LGBT.鈥
That attitude was reinforced last week, when the United States canceled a trip to Indonesia by a special envoy on LGBTQ rights after the country鈥檚 most influential Islamic group objected.
"We cannot accept guests whose purpose of coming here is to damage and mess up the noble values of our nation鈥檚 religion and culture,鈥 said Anwar Abbas, vice chairman of the Indonesian Ulema Council.
D茅d茅 Oetomo, founder of the LGBTQ-rights organization GAYa NUSANTARA, said acceptance of his community varies from one region of Indonesia to another. He cited a few examples of public support 鈥 such as a trans woman chosen as leader of a village council 鈥 yet said there is little hope of meaningful government support.
鈥淲e still cannot imagine if there would be a law for the protection against discrimination,鈥 Oetomo said.
That鈥檚 the norm throughout the Muslim and Arab worlds 鈥 either government neglect or outright hostility toward LGBTQ people, said Rasha Younes, a senior researcher with Human Rights Watch who investigates anti-LGBTQ abuses in the Middle East and North Africa.
In a few countries, LGBTQ-friendly cafes have surfaced and activists have been able to organize 鈥 offering social services and, if possible, campaigning for reforms, Younes said.
鈥淏ut the results are as weak as ever,鈥 Younes said, noting that anti-LGBTQ laws remain in place and activists often face crackdowns by security forces.
鈥淭here is some solidarity and changing social attitudes,鈥 she said. 鈥淏ut the onus is on the government. LGBTQ people will continue to live on the margins unless the governments repeal these laws.鈥
In many cases, the religious underpinnings of anti-LGBTQ attitudes are coupled with resentment of outside pressure from nations that have embraced LGBTQ inclusion. 鈥淟ightyear鈥 from playing at cinemas due to inclusion of a brief kiss between a lesbian couple. In Qatar, authorities have urged visiting World Cup fans to respect the local culture 鈥 in which LGBTQ activism is taboo.
In some countries, apparent advances for LGBTQ people have been followed by pushbacks. Lebanon is an example. Over recent years, its LGBTQ community was widely seen as the most vibrant and visible in the Arab world, with advocacy for greater rights by some groups, and gay bars hosting events such as drag shows.
Yet many in the community have been reeling from a this year that included an Interior Ministry ban on events described as aiming to promote 鈥渟exual perversion.鈥
Online, some people have railed against Pride events, at times citing religious beliefs, both Muslim and Christian, to denounce LGBTQ activism. Someone posted an image of a knife slicing through a rainbow flag.
At one point, security force members showed up at the Beirut office of the LGBTQ-rights organization Helem, executive director Tarek Zeidan said.
Some LGBTQ activists called for a protest, distributing an invitation that said, 鈥淲e will continue to love and to live as we wish.鈥 But the demonstration was postponed, with organizers citing safety concerns.
The crackdown has rattled LGBTQ people already straining due to Lebanon鈥檚 economic crises, which activists say have disproportionately fueled unemployment and homelessness in vulnerable groups.
In November, activist groups reported with relief that the Interior Ministry鈥檚 ban on LGBTQ events had been suspended.
鈥淲e are on the battlefield and part of the conversation,鈥 said Zeidan. 鈥淚n Lebanon, the conversation is fiercely being debated. In other parts of the region, the conversation has been completely quenched.鈥
Sahar Mandour鈥, Amnesty International鈥檚 researcher on Lebanon, elaborated.
鈥淭here is a space. We have organizations. Nightlife exists,鈥 Mandour鈥 said. 鈥淏ut it鈥檚 always under negotiation, where and when. There鈥檚 no protection, but there鈥檚 existence.鈥
In Turkey, which is overwhelmingly Muslim, President Recep Tayyip Erdogan鈥檚 government has shown increasing intolerance toward any expression of LGBTQ rights, banning Pride marches and suppressing the display of rainbow symbols.
It鈥檚 a marked change for Erdogan, who, before taking power in 2003, said mistreatment of gay people was inhumane and called for legal protections.
A Pride march in Istanbul, which had been held since 2003 while attracting huge crowds, has been canceled since 2014. In contrast, the government recently allowed to proceed without police interference.
The ruling party is expected to propose constitutional amendments that would protect family values from what Erdogan describes as 鈥減erverted currents.鈥 Activists fear the amendments would curb LGBTQ rights and discourage same-sex relationships.
Among Arab nations, most explicitly outlaw gay sex, including Qatar. It has faced intense international scrutiny and criticism before and during the World Cup over rights issues, including
Other Arab countries, such as Egypt, prosecute LGBTQ people under charges of immorality or debauchery. The situation is similar ; Human Rights Watch says lack of an explicit ban on gay sex there has not protected LGBTQ people from violence and discrimination, nor from occasional charges of immorality or public indecency.
A transgender Iraqi woman who identifies as Kween B, told The Associated Press her life felt precarious, like standing in the midst of a busy highway.
鈥淵ou could get smashed any second,鈥 said Kween, who lives in the Kurdish city of Sulaymaniyah.
In her case, that has meant getting bullied as a child and suppressing her feminine identity while in high school and university. Now, at 33, she believes she would be rejected, or even physically harmed, if she came out to her family. But in recent years, she has increasingly pushed the boundaries, donning a rainbow wristband in public or wearing makeup for a party.
Earlier this year, Human Rights Watch alleged that armed groups in Iraq abduct, rape, torture and kill LGBTQ people with impunity and that the police arrest and also carry out violence against them.
Iraqi officials deny any attacks by security forces on gay people; one commander affiliated with an umbrella group of militias rejected the accusation and said violence suffered by gays was likely from their families.
For Kween, her apartment is her safe space. A few years ago, she started hosting gatherings that, at first, included a few close LGBTQ friends but has since grown. At such gatherings, she can fully express herself, donning a wig and a dress.
鈥淲e鈥檝e got to be who we are,鈥 she said. 鈥淚f we don鈥檛 do the fight ourselves, nobody is going to do it for us.鈥
Looking ahead, leading LGBTQ-rights advocates salute the courage of activists trying to operate publicly in countries such as Lebanon and Tunisia. But they are not optimistic about major LGBTQ advances any time soon in most of the Arab and Muslim worlds.
鈥淚n many countries, where civil society is not allowed, where there鈥檚 complete lack of rights and free association, activism cannot be viewed in the public realm,鈥 Younes said. 鈥淧eople cannot protest or express support online for LGBTQ rights, so there鈥檚 total repression of LGBTQ rights.鈥
Kevin Schumacher, whose current work focuses on advancing women鈥檚 rights in Afghanistan, spent seven years as Middle East and North Africa program coordinator for OutRight Action International, a global LGBTQ-rights organization.
He鈥檚 skeptical that the LGBTQ cause can rise to the forefront in the region鈥檚 numerous authoritarian-ruled countries where women and political dissidents, as well as LGBTQ people, often are repressed. He sees the current widespread anti-government protests in Iran 鈥 where homosexual acts can be punished by death 鈥 as a possible model for how change could come about.
鈥淵ou can鈥檛 just talk about LGBTQ rights if the straight people are oppressed, if the women have no rights,鈥 he said. 鈥淭he discourse should be about bodily autonomy 鈥 the right over your body and decisions over your sexual rights, not specific to men, women, gay, straight."
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Fam reported from Cairo, Crary from New York. Associated Press writer Suzan Fraser contributed from Ankara, Turkey.
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Associated Press religion coverage receives support through the AP鈥檚 collaboration with The Conversation US, with funding from Lilly Endowment Inc. The AP is solely responsible for this content.